salmon dog! It’s hard to imagine how it could be. Four-legged fish with floppy ears running up and down the beach! I do not think.

The Coast Salish (First Nations people) on Vancouver Island called Chum or Keta Salmon, Dog Salmon. Chum salmon develop a very hooked jaw with ferocious teeth at spawning time. Maybe that’s why they were called Salmon Dog. Chum, on average, weighs eight to ten pounds and is around 40 inches long. Its oceanic coloration from silvery bluish-green changes at spawning to a blotchy purplish-red and with distinct yellow and pink vertical bars on the sides. They are an ugly fish!

When we arrive at Qualicum Beach (which means, “where the salmon dogs run”), the last image that comes to mind is Dog Salmon. Qualicum Beach is a quaint town in the midst of absolute paradise. Everything is beautiful, from the endlessly sprawling sandy and pebble beaches to the gorgeous snow-capped mountains that provide a backdrop to the area. The town has worked hard to preserve its heritage that can be seen walking through the center of the city. A heritage style design predominates, providing a pleasant village atmosphere. Everywhere we go, from the spectacular heritage-designed Quality Foods grocery store to the trendy Smithford’s, we meet some very friendly people.

The town hall at Qualicum Beach
Photo by Ron Kirstein

Finding a place to stay is not difficult. The area has a large number of accommodations, from bed and breakfasts to motels and resorts. We chose the Seaview Beach Resort because we have a family reunion. The quaint cabins range from 1 to 3 bedrooms and are fully equipped. When we walk out the door, in a matter of seconds, we are right on the beach. The Seaview is set well back from the road and is set amongst modern residential properties. It is very quiet and peaceful. Across the street we discovered a large Federal Wildlife Sanctuary. As we walk along the beach and the road, we are drooling over the amazing new beachfront homes. My wife is exploring the fire pit where she will roast her marsh mellows as soon as the sun goes down.

One of the beautiful houses along the seashore.
Photo by Ron Kirstein

Now we are installed in our cabin by the sea. Besides the obvious, we check to see what we can do while we’re in paradise. Locals tell us that the beach can be walked almost continuously for about 50 km (30 miles) along the coast, with the exception of interruptions by two rivers, the Englishman and French Creek. When the tide goes out, it seems that we can walk halfway to the mainland.

Everywhere you go in Qualicum you’ll see immaculate gardens, so we decided to check out some of the attractions. Milner Gardens and Woodlands is a rare property located on the shores of the Straits of Georgia. It has a 10 acre garden complete with a character house that is used primarily as a tea house. The garden is surrounded by an additional 60 acres of coastal Douglas fir. Malaspina-University College acquired the site from Veronica Milner in 1996. Veronica’s mother was a cousin of Winston Churchill. Much of the royal family has visited or stayed in the gardens.

From the tea room and gardens you can enjoy unearthly views of the Strait of Georgia and the Coastal Mountains on the mainland. The Gardens and Woodland is operated by a non-profit horticultural society with a mission to maintain and restore the gardens and buildings. Volunteers and students do much of the maintenance of the gardens under the supervision of horticulture staff. I highly recommend these gardens and woodland walks.

Looking for a tourist trap? Well, the best little tourist trap in BC is the Old Country Market in Coombs. A few kilometers from Qualicum you will find a country market with goats living on the roof. This eclectic market has something for everyone. My favorite is the ice cream bar. It’s not your ordinary ice cream bar. It is about 40 feet long and offers many options for sundaes, sorbets, and sundaes. A single cone cost me only $3.00 and I swear I had a pound of ice cream in it. After eating the mound on top, I gobbled down ice cream all the way to the bottom of the waffle cone. I consider myself an ice cream aficionado and have never seen such a generous place. This is a shop till you drop with vegetables, meats, food specialties, clothes, toys, unique gifts and much more. It also has a very fine restaurant that seems to efficiently serve an endless line. You have my vote for the best little tourist trap in the world!

The area boasts some of the best provincial parks in BC. If you enjoy camping, hiking, beach exploring, or visiting spectacular waterfalls, you must visit Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park, Englishman River Falls Provincial Park, Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park, and Cathedral Grove Provincial Park. Other attractions can be found throughout the area by checking the web at http://tourismmall.victoria.bc.ca/aavanisle/pqattract.htm